Fine Filipina Embroideries
Women of Piña
Fine Filipina Embroideries
In the Philippines, the art of piña-seda embroidery is a testament to the skill and creativity of female embroiderers. This traditional craft involves intricate designs and delicate stitching, which are often passed down from generation to generation. The woven piña cloths from Aklan are highly sought after and are traded to different parts of the country to be embellished.
The embroidery heritage in the Philippines can be traced back to the colonial era when European missionaries taught lowland women the art of embroidery and lace making. These skills were later perfected and incorporated into the local culture, becoming an integral part of the goods traded during the galleon trade.
Today, piña-seda embroidery continues to thrive, with embroiderers in various regions of the country preserving this cherished tradition. From Lumban in Laguna and Taal in Batangas to Molo in Iloilo, Bocaue and Santa Maria in Bulacan, and the cities of Malabon and Parañaque in Metro Manila, these skilled women play a crucial role in promoting sustainable livelihoods and preserving cultural heritage.
Philippine embroidery has a rich history that has influenced various cultures around the world. One such influence is the misnomer "mantones de Manila," which actually refers to shawls manufactured and embroidered in China that passed through Manila before being exported to America and Europe.
The process of embroidering piña-seda cloth involves multiple individuals and stages. After the woven cloth is prepared, it is brought to a nagdidibuho, nagpipinta, or naggughit (designer) who draws, traces, or stamps the actual size of the design. This design is then transferred to the cloth by the embroiderer using a mixture of blue dye and kerosene.
The embroiderer punches holes using a needle on the tracing paper and places the cloth underneath it. She then dabs the mixture onto the cloth, transferring the design. This process is usually done by designers for mass production, but can also be done by hand by skilled embroiderers.
The cloth is then passed on to the nagbuburda or nag-ooras (embroiderer/hourly-paid embroiderer). Here, the cloth is stretched on a loop made of rattan (Calamus) called bastidor in Bulacan and Batangas and tambor in Lumban. Preliminary stitches, called palaman or bituka (intestines), are made using cotton threads to give an embossed effect. Frequently used motifs include kinape (coffee beanlike) and the sinampagita (jasmine like) stitch, which is widely used to decorate as well as bind drawn thread in calado panels.
Each embroiderer has her own specialization, such as tapado (embossed), sombrado (shadow applique), “ethnic” (free-from motif), or calado (open-work). The most coveted skill is the sombrado and calado. The calado is done next in order to highlight the embroidered parts. It involves pagbubunot or pagbabakbak (drawing or pulling-out of threads), paglalala or pagsasara (gathering and stitching of leftover threads to form a fine net), and pag-uusapan (discussion) among the embroiderers to decide on the design and color scheme. The final product is a beautiful piña-seda cloth with intricate embroidery and open-work patterns that showcase the skill and creativity of the Filipino embroiderers.
Sewing machines were introduced in the Philippines in the 1930s, competing with hand embroidery. However, the art of hand embroidery remained popular due to its unique aesthetic and the skill required to create intricate designs. The embroidered cloth is finally given to the naglalaba (laundry) for hand washing with tap water and mild detergent to remove the traces of the dye and other stains. Laundrymen are paid per piece of cloth washed, with the amount varying depending on the material and complexity of the design. After washing, the cloth is stretched and applied with almirol (starch paste) before sun- or air-drying.
In the past, a bordadora (embroiderer) would perform all steps involving embroidery, including selling the embellished cloth. Nowadays, they tend to specialize and are often part of the production line under the manager or owner of a shop. Dignitaries and government officials wear embroidered woven pure piña or piña-seda barong Tagalog, the male national costume, and baro at saya, the female national dress, during international and national events. As a result, it has become the standard formal wear during official functions and special occasions. Although mainly tailored for barong Tagalog, baro at saya, and pañuelo, hand woven and embroidered piña-based cloths are now used for handkerchiefs, table linens, hand fans, bags, and even wedding gowns. Noted Filipino couturiers in the local and international fashion industry are now using these in their creations. Filipino communities in different parts of the globe would also wear Filipinana inspired clothing during special occasions to represent their Filipino identity and as tribute to the weavers, embroiderers, and designers of piña-seda heritage.
In Lumban, their town fiesta was transformed into the Barong Tagalog Festival in 1998, renamed Burda (embroidery) Festival in 2001. An association of embroiderers in Lumban was established in 2005 to unite embroiderers and producers to ensure the sustainability of the embroidery industry. Embroidery is also included in the Home Economics subject of the local schools, which may help in the transmission of the tradition. There are also competitions held during the Burda Festival in recognition of the skills of the local embroiderers. Training programs are also being developed with the assistance of the Department of Trade and Industry to promote and preserve the art of piña-seda embroidery.
As we celebrate Women's Month, let us take a moment to appreciate the incredible talent and resilience of these Filipino embroiderers. Their dedication to their craft not only contributes to the country's rich cultural tapestry but also serves as an inspiration for future generations.
Happy National Women’s month to our embroiderers!