
Weavers of Identity
๐๐จ๐ฆ๐๐ง ๐จ๐ ๐๐ข๐งฬ๐ 


๐๐๐๐ซ๐๐ง๐จ ๐ค๐ ๐๐๐๐ฃ๐ฉ๐๐ฉ๐ฎ
Piรฑa weaving is deep rooted in the history of the Aklanon, a tradition that has been practiced since the past centuries of the Philippines. This intricate process begins with the meticulous preparation of the fibers by farmers, scrapers, knotters, and warpers. After producing the fine fibers, the "๐ข๐๐ฃ๐ค๐๐๐๐ค๐" or weavers using her โ๐ฉ๐๐ฃ๐๐๐๐โ or footloom take over to weave one of the world's rarest handwoven fabrics that was branded as the queen of the Philippine fabrics, the piรฑa.
The initial preparation for weaving involves dressing the loom with the warped pina fiber as vertical fibers of the fabric in a process called "๐ฅ๐๐๐ก๐๐ ๐๐จ." This is followed by the actual weaving process, where the spun piรฑa fibers are used as the weft or horizontal fibers. The next stage sees the knotted fibers being spun on bamboo bobbins in a process called "๐ฅ๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ก๐๐ฃ๐ฎ๐๐จ" to produce spun piรฑa fibers, which serve as the weft or horizontal fibers for weaving. Piรฑa weaving involves several techniques, including plain weave, โ๐จ๐ช๐ ๐จ๐ค๐ โ or inlaid design, and โ๐ง๐๐ฃ๐๐ช๐โ or open weave technique. Plain weaving is the basic technique used to produce fabric, but it takes skill and practice to improve and incorporate more complex designs. Suksok involves creating intricate patterns within the fabric using different dyed piรฑa fibers or yarns, while โ๐ง๐๐ฃ๐๐ช๐โ creates an open weave effect using three pedal or threadle.
Weavers started young and exposed to weaving process with their parents, years of curiousity until they able to reach the loom and sneak to weave their motherโs loom until get comfortable do it and perfect their skills. Plain weaving can take one day to produce an approximate length of 1 meter of fabric, while weaving with โ๐จ๐ช๐ ๐จ๐ค๐ โ or โ๐ง๐๐ฃ๐๐ช๐โ can only produce a few inches of fabric per day depending on the complexity of the patterns. Despite these challenges, weavers continue to hone their craft and push the boundaries of what is possible in piรฑa weaving. Through the years a so much innovation had been made when Lourdes Montinola started Piรฑa weaving competition with HABI The Philippine Textile Council. This motivation inspires weavers and annually weave a new innovation on pina fabric. One of the consistent winners is our cultural master Raquel where her 2 works championed in the last 5 years, while her other works received special awards. Her exquisitely handwoven Piรฑa liniwan-seda shawl with full โ๐จ๐ช๐ ๐จ๐ค๐ โ and โ๐ง๐๐ฃ๐๐ช๐โ using only piรฑa fibers as embellishment, unanimously won the 2019 Pina competition. While her piece titled โSintasโ won the competition in 2021, our cultural master Raquel walks us through her creative ideas of innovating new embellishing technique in piรฑa fabric. โSintasโ is a local translation for lace and where it is inspired from. Inlaying cotton threads while weaving, pulling the threads out then twisting and lacing it formed a classic Spanish Renaissance-inspired silhouettes. Her son Carlo and Delara also received recognitions from the competition for their piรฑa entry with contemporary approach.
Piรฑa weaving is more than just a craft for the Aklanon people; it is a way of life that has been passed down through generations.
This is a publication series honoring our women of Piรฑa.
Happy National Womenโs month to our weavers! 

